Home Inspections
Home Inspection Company
Having a home inspected is similar to getting a physical checkup, from the roof to the foundation. If a problem or symptom is discovered, the inspector may recommend further evaluation or repairs. Our inspectors are certified and inspect to the guidelines set forth by NACHI (National Association of Certified Home Inspector).
Home Inspections make good sense whether buying, building or selling. Understanding your home’s systems and components are critical when it comes to purchase, repair and maintenance decisions.
A home inspection is not a warranty or insurance program but a method to assist you in understanding the condition of your new home.
After a comprehensive inspection of your home, you will receive a PDF soft copy inspection report by 5pm the next business day.
Your Home Inspection covers
FAQ
Grounds
1. Driveway
Concrete often cracks due to drying and shrinkage. Excessive cracks often create trip hazards and correction may require replacement of the concrete. Asphalt driveways need regular maintenance and resealing.
2. Sidewalks
Walks can become damaged by tree roots and settlement. Excessive cracks can often be repaired by replacing sections of the sidewalk.
3. Retaining Walls
These are used to stabilize steep banks which control soil movement. Water that is allowed to collect behind the wall can exert pressure causing the wall to move. Drainage provisions are often not evident with a visual evaluation. Sometimes efflorescence (a white powdery substance) is present on the wall due to no or blocked drainage. Retaining walls should appear straight or tilt slightly toward the earth they support. Walls that are cracked or leaning will need structural evaluation and repair.
4. Patio
Patios are similar to driveways and sidewalks with respect to cracks and movement. If the patio is covered with carpet, it is recommended that the material be removed for evaluation. Patios should be installed to drain water away from the house.
5. Patio Cover
Structures are built over decks, patios and porches to provide protection against the rain and shade from the sun. These structures are considered to be a structural element and require proper design and attachment. In most areas a permit is required for construction and it is recommended that you obtain all information available. If the cover is integral with the house roof, information will be provided in the roofing section of the report.
6. Decks/Porches
Decks that are higher than 30″ above the surrounding ground will need a guardrail that is at least 36″ tall. New installations should not have any space in the railing that is larger than 4″ in width. Handrails for steps to decks and porches should be easily gripped. Wood decks or porches should be supported by concrete footings and clearance of the wood to the soil is critical to avoid deterioration. If there is no access to the area below the deck or porch it is recommended that this area be opened for inspection. Many jurisdictions require a permit for decks and information should be obtained, if available. Decks or porches with waterproofed surfaces need regular maintenance and resealing approximately every three to five years to prevent cracking and deterioration. If carpet or other material covers the deck, we recommend removal for evaluation.
7. Fences & Gates
Our evaluation of fences is limited to those areas which may directly have an effect on the condition of the house. Fences that are surrounding pools must be of sufficient height for safety. Each jurisdiction has safety height standards. Gates that enter pool areas must be self-closing and latching.
Exterior
8. Exterior
Uneven steps are a trip hazard which should be corrected. The difference in the distance between one step and another should be no greater than 3/8 inch. Handrails should be secure and have a grippable surface. Two by four inch or two by six inch boards are not considered appropriate for handrails unless they are routed with a grip. Current standards call for narrow clearances between rails such that a 4 inch sphere may not pass through. Older rails had larger openings when installed and upgrading should be considered for child safety.
9. Exterior Walls
Exterior wall coverings protect the wall framing and interior finishes from the weather. Any openings or penetrations in the covering should be properly sealed. Earth should not touch the wall covering and a clearance of approximately 4 to 6 inches should be maintained. Firewood should not be stored against wood framed walls. Planters that are against the house walls can promote rot and should be corrected. If the wall system is E.I.F.S., we recommend a fully certified inspection fur further information.
10. Trim
Trim includes the eaves, soffits, facia and moldings around the exterior. The eave is the portion of the roof that overhangs the wall. Soffits are enclosed caves and should be properly vented to prevent moisture damage. Facia is the board installed at the end of the eave to give the house a finished appearance. Many times, water running off the roof flows onto this board causing damage.
11. Chimney
In this section of the report you will find our evaluation of the exterior of the chimney. Spark screens and rain caps are used over the chimney flue to prevent sparks escaping and water entering the fireplace. The top cement covering of the brick also diverts water from damaging the masonry and cracks should be sealed for protection.
12. Sprinklers
Our check of the sprinklers is limited to only those found around the house and does not include groves, orchards or electronic sprinkler systems.
13. House Facets
If hose faucets are winterized and shut off, they cannot be inspected. Anti-siphon devices for hose faucets prevent any contaminated water From being siphoned back into the house supply These are easily installed if none are provided.
14. Gutters & Downspouts
Water tests are not performed during this inspection. Downspouts should lead well away from the house foundation. Gutters should be cleared regularly to avoid damage to the structure and prevent blockages. Flat roofs that drain into area drains should be provided with a second drain system that will operate should the primary drain become blocked.
Foundation
Notice
The inspection of the foundation components is limited to visible and accessible areas only. Finished or partially finished basements limit access. Moisture in basements and crawlspaces is a common problem and any indication of water penetration should be reviewed. Control of rain and surface water around the house is critical to keeping foundation areas dry.Moisture can cause decay and deterioration to wooden components and excessive water can damage foundations. Regular inspections and constant management is advised.
The inspection of the foundation components is limited to visible and accessible areas only. Finished or partially finished basements limit access. Moisture in basements and crawlspaces is a common problem and any indication of water penetration should be reviewed. Control of rain and surface water around the house is critical to keeping foundation areas dry.Moisture can cause decay and deterioration to wooden components and excessive water can damage foundations. Regular inspections and constant management is advised.
15. Lot Drainage
16. Slab On grade
- A. Exterior Wall
- B. Anchor Bolt
- C. Metal Reinforcement
- D. Concrete Slab
- E. Sand or Gravel
- F. Floor Covering
17. Raised Foundation
- A. Floor System
- B. Wood or Steel Beam
- C. Pier / Post Connector
- D. Concrete Pier
- E. Foundation Bolt
- F. Shear Panel
- G. Insulation & Vapor Barrier
18. Basement
- A. 2" x 10" Floor Joist
- B. 2" x 10" Header
- C. 2" x 6" Sill
- D. Foundation Wall
- E. Waterproofing
- F. Drain Tile
- G. Basement Floor
- H. Window Well
Roof
- A. Hip
- B. Ridge
- C. Field
- D. Gutter
- E. Downspout
- F. Roof Deck
- G. Rafter
- H. Underlayment
19a. Asphalt Shingles
Commonly called composition shingles, this material has a typical life expectancy of 12 to 25 years depending on many factors. The number of roofs installed over existing shingles is limited to three and in some jurisdictions only two is allowed.
19b. Wood Shake & Shingles
Wood roofs will typically last 20 to 35 years depending upon the thickness and quality. Annual maintenance is required on wood roofs which consists of replacing the weather damaged shakes. In some areas the constant moisture can cause the wood to deteriorate. Care against fire is advised.
20a. Clay & concrete Tile
These materials are very durable and have anticipated life of 30 to 50 years. The tiles however are brittle and can be damaged, so the roof cannot be walked on. The inspection is very limited.
20b. Slate
Considered one of the longest lasting roofing materials, slate can endure 50 to more than 100 years. A very brittle and expensive roof, inspections are limited.
20c. Metal & Fibrous
Metal roofing comes in many forms from shingles to panels. Fibrous roofing is a mixture of various materials including cement and perlite.
21a. Built-Up Roofing
The surface covering is the distinguished feature of this roof cover. Maintenance consisting of repairing any worn areas is required. Installed on low slopes, these roofs should be inspected annually due to the potential for poor drainage.
21b. Single Ply
A relatively new roofing system, single ply membranes are gaining popularity. The roof covering consists of large sheets of a rubber or PVC based compound.
21c. Foam
Polyurethane foam with elastomeric coating. This roof requires periodic re-coating to extend it’s service life
22. Exposed Flashings
- A. Wall Flashing
- B. Drip Edge
- C. Sewer Vent
- D. Gas Vent
- E. Chimney Flashing
- F. Rain / Spark Cap
- G. Cement Cap
- H. Roof Valley
- I. Exhaust Vent
- J. Skylight
- K. Gable Vent
- L. Ridge Vent
- M. Soffit
- N. Eaves
- O. Facia
- P. Guttering
- Q. Downspout
Plumbing
- A. Main Water Line
- B. Main Water Shutoff
- C. Water Meter
- D. Water Supply Line
- E. Main Sewer Line
- F. Waste Line
- G. Sewer Cleanout
- H. Sewer Vent Pipe
- I. Roof Vent Flashing
- J. Sewer Tap
- K. Water Heater
- L. TPR Valve (Temperature & Pressure Relief)
- M. Main Gas Line
- N. Gas Shutoff Valve
- O. Gas Drip Leg
23. Main Water Line
The main water supply pipe brings water from the street to the home. Older pipe materials may be 1/2″ or 3/4″ galvanized steel. This type of pipe corrodes internally and may not deliver the volume of water now needed throughout the house. 3/4″ copper or plastic pipe is the minimum currently used in modern construction. Normal water pressure is between 35 and 80 PSI. Excessive pressure can wear on valves, fittings and appliances.
24. Water Supply Lines
Copper, galvanized, plastic and lead piping have all been used at some time for water systems of residences. Old galvanized piping typically requires replacement due to internal restriction. Lead pipes present a possible health hazard if the lead leaks into the drinking water. A form of plastic piping called “polybutylene” has shown defects from the manufacturing and installation process that causes leaks. Your inspector is only able to tell you the condition of the visible piping. no water quality tests are performed during this inspection.
25. Waste Lines
These pipes carry the waste from the house to the sewer system. It is impossible to predict waste line blockages as these can occur any time during use. Some plastic “ABS” pipes have shown defection from the manufacturing process and can become weak and break.
26. Fuel System
Natural gas is delivered to the house through underground pipes. On-site fuel storage may consist of oil or propane fuels. Some homes have been converted to natural gas from oil fuel. These homes may have underground fuel tanks still in place which may contaminate the soil. Your inspector is unable to determine the presence of buried fuel tanks.
27. Water Heater
Water heaters are sealed systems which contain a great deal of pressure. The TPR (Temperature and Pressure Relief) valve is a device designed to release excessive pressure from the system. There should be a drain pipe attached to this valve which terminates at a safe location away from body contact. Water heaters sometimes make gurgling noises which are typically the result of built up calcium inside the tank.
Heating / Cooling
28 Description
Our description of the heating system includes where the unit is located and the fuel used to generate the heat. Forced air furnaces and water boilers can operate on gas, oil or electricity. Heat pumps utilize electricity to drive the motors and compressors. Furnace size is listed for reference only, if available, and no calculations are performed during this inspection to determine the adequacy or efficiency of the heating system.
29. Condition
Systems are tested using normal homeowner operating controls. If pilots or circuit breakers are off at the time of the inspection, the inspector will not ignite or activate the system. You can contact the utility provider for evaluation of the heating system.
30. Venting
Fuel burning appliances exhaust the products of combustion to the exterior through vent pipes. Vent pipes utilize caps to prevent moisture entry and to stop backdrafting. Backdrafting means that the products of combustion are escaping into the home instead of venting to the exterior.
31. Combustion Air
When fires burn, they consume oxygen. Fuel that burns completely is harmless and creates only carbon dioxide. Fuel burning appliances must be provided with a constant source of fresh air for the fuels to burn properly. If air is not provided to the fire, incomplete combustion may occur which could produce carbon monoxide. Be sure not to block any air vents around or near your heating systems. Also be advised that maintaining clean air filters is important not only to the air you breathe, but to the operation of the unit as well.
32. Burners
It is impossible to see an entire heat exchanger inside most furnaces, so the inspection does not comment on this component. If there is an uneven or unusual flame pattern or there is rust, charring or deterioration in the burner chamber, we recommend a further investigation of the unit.
33. Distribution
Most heaters utilize some method of moving the furnace generated heat to the rooms which need the heat. Forced air heaters use ducts and registers. Water heating systems use pipes and radiators or convectors. Radiant systems may use pipes or wires if electric. Much of the distribution system will not be visible during the inspection and cannot be judged. For instance, water piping that is buried below or in the concrete floor slab may have leaks that are not detectable without specialized equipment.
34. Normal Controls
Normal operating controls are homeowner operated devices such as a thermostat, wall switch or safety switch. Loose thermostats should be secured and thermostats that are not centrally located or on outside walls should be relocated for better furnace performance.
35. Air Filters
Regular cleaning or changing of air filters is important for proper furnace performance. Dirty filters can cause damage to the heater and waste energy dollars. We do not evaluaet the operation of electronic air cleaners but will comment on cleanliness if present.
36. Heating Notes
Our evaluation of the heating system is visual only and does not include dismantling the unit. A service technician should be consulted for an in-depth evaluation, cleaning and adjustment of the furnace for optimum performance and safety. Most local gas companies will perform a safety check and light gas pilots for their customers prior to the heating season. We also do not evaluate humidifiers built onto the heating unit.
37. Evaporate Cooler
Evaporative coolers (commonly called swamp coolers) utilize air flowing across moving water to humidify and cool the house air. Standing water that is left in the unit for extended periods of time can breed bacteria. Evaporative coolers should be drained at the end of each cooling season and cleaned prior to use.
38. Air Conditioner
Air conditioning systems rely on a constant flow of air through the system to properly operate. Restricted air flow from dirty filters or blocked coils can cause icing on the evaporative coil. This may make the air from the unit appear to be colder but is actually harmful for the system.Air conditioning systems rely on a constant flow of air through the system to properly operate. Restricted air flow from dirty filters or blocked coils can cause icing on the evaporative coil. This may make the air from the unit appear to be colder but is actually harmful for the system.
- A. Condensor Fan
- B. Condensor Coil
- C. Concrete Pad
- D. Compressor
- E. Refrigerant Lines
- F. Blower
- G. Filter
- H. Condensate Drain
- I. Cooling Coil
- J. Humidifier
- K. Air Plenum
- L. Return Air
Electrical
- A. Service Drop
- B. Weatherhead
- C. Service Mast / Conduit
- D. Electric Meter
- E. Main Panel
- F. 120 Volt Lighting Circuit
- G. 120 Volt Outlet Circuit
- H. 240 Volt Oven Circuit
- I. 120 Volt Outlet Circuit
- J. Sub-Panel
- K. "GFCI" Protected Outlet
- L.240 Volt Water Heater Circuit
39. Electric Service
The electrical service refers to the wires that run from the steet or main pole and enter the house either underground or through the rooftop. The number of wires that enter the panel determine the voltage of the service: 2 wires = 120 volt, 3 wires = 240 volt. A home that has only a 120 volt service would be considered out of date by today’s standards because larger appliances that operate at 240 volts cannot be utilized. Electrical load and demand calculations are not performed during this inspection.
40. Main Panel
The ampacity of the system is determined by the size of the service wires, the rating of the panel and the size of the main fuse or breaker. Some older panels will have fuses while newer systems use breakers. The main disconnect is used to shut the entire electrical system in the house off in case of emergency. If no main shutoff is provided, no more than six breakers are allowed to be installed.
41. Conductors
Conductor is the term used for the wires used for electrical installations. Copper and aluminum are common materials used for electrical wiring. The U.S. Product Consumer Safety Commision issues a booklet on the hazards of aluminum wire installations made in the early 1960’s to the mid 1970’s. Please obtain this information if aluminum is noted.
42. Sub-Panel
Electrical panels that due not contain the main service wiring are called sub-panels. Sub-panels are used for a variety of of reasons ranging from house size to ease of accessibility. During inspections of homes that are occupied is is possible that a sub-panel might be hidden by pictures or furniture. Please check carefully during your final walkthrough of the house after all belongings are removed.
43. Panel Notes
This section of the report notes conditions found inside the electrical panels. Repairs to wiring conditions should be performed by qualified tradespeople due to the inherent hazards.
44. Wiring Notes
Our inspection of the electrical wiring and fixtures throughout the house will include random testing of outlets and lights. At least one outlet per room, all accessible outlets in the garage and on the exterior, and all outlets within six feet of sinks will be tested for grounding and polarity.
Interior
45. Entry Doors
Weather-stripping around the entry door keeps cold air from entering the house. If no weather stripping is provided we recommend it be installed.
46. Interior Doors
Doors that stick, bind or won’t close properly can be adjusted or trimmed to fit. Sometimes however, when doors are out of square and other related conditions are present, it may be an indication of movement in the structure or foundation. If these notes are made, a qualified civil, structural or geotechnical engineer should be consulted.
47. Exterior Doors
Non-safety glass has been used for years in the sliding glass doors of older homes. You should consider upgrading any non-tempered glass doors throughout your home. At times, it is not possible to determine if glass is tempered.
48. Windows
A representative number of windows are checked during our inspection. The condition of winter storm windows and doors are not part of this inspection. It is not possible to evaluate the seal on thermopane windows as conditions change from morning to night and season to season.
49. Interior Walls
In occupied homes, not all portions of all walls will be exposed to view. After the occupants remove all of their belongings, it is wise for you to conduct a final walkthrough of the home. Look carefully at areas that were not visible during this inspection.
50. Ceilings
Moisture stains on ceilings can come From a variety of sources: plumbing leaks, roof leaks and condensation to name a few. At times it is not possible to determine the cause of a stain. Some older acoustic sprayed ceilings have contained asbestos in the past. Only laboratory testing will accurately reveal asbestos and this testing is not included in the inspection fee.
51. Floors
Our evaluation of the floors in the home is to identify major defects where visible. Stains or odors may be hidden and are not part of this inspection. Once furniture and belongings are removed you will be able to view the condition of floor coverings. Do a careful check on your final walkthrough.
52. Fireplace
Our evaluation of the fireplace does not include a smoke test. Some fireplaces emit smoke into the house during use. If this occurs, a qualified chimney sweep should be contacted for remedy.
52. Fireplace
53. Interior Features
- A. Central Vacuum
- B. Ceiling Fan
- C. Interior Stairs
- D. Stair Handrails
- E. Wet Bar Faucet
- F. Wet Bar Counter
- G. Plumbing
54. Smoke Detector
Smoke detectors are most effective when located on each floor, in bedrooms and in hallways outside of bedrooms. These units are tested by pushing the test button. Carbon monoxide detectors are new devices that should be considered if fuel burning appliances are installed in the house.
55. Laundry
Washing machines and dryers are not moved or operated during our inspection of the laundry area. Areas behind and under the machines cannot be judged.
56. Attic
- A. Roof Framing
- B. Ceiling Framing
- C. Ventilation
- D. Insulation
- E. Plumbing Vent Pipe
- F. Recessed Ceiling Light
- G. Attic Access
Garage
57. Floor
Garage floors should be constructed of non- flammable materials. Carpeting or other floor coverings should be removed. The floor should also be sloped to drain out the overhead door.
58. Firewall/Ceiling
A wall or ceiling that separates the garage from the house is considered a fire separation. The coverings of these areas should not have large holes. It is typically not possible to determine the rating of these coverings.
59. Ventilation
Ventilation for the garage becomes critical when fuel burning appliances are installed in the garage. These appliances require air for proper combustion.
60. Door to Living Space
The door that enters the house from the garage is considered a fire separation door and should be solid wood, solid core or rated for that location. Pet doors are not allowed.
61. Exterior Door
Sometimes hollow core doors are installed in this location and moisture will delaminate the door skin at the bottom.
62. Vehicle door
Garage vehicle door types vary from roll-up to tilt-up to sliding. Older door hardware springs are considered unsafe if safety catches and wires are not provided. For safety, upgrading is recommended for older hardware.
63. Automatic Opener
Garage door opener remote controls are not tested. If a door hits an obstruction during closing it should reverse automatically for safety. Older openers were not equipped with this safety function.
64. Electrical
The garage is a common area for electrical wiring, lights and outlets to be added. All added electrical requires a permit. One of the most common mistakes is using extension cords to power lights or garage door openers.
Kitchen
66. Kitchen Sink
Our evaluation of the sink includes turning on the faucet. We check functional flow and look for obvious leaks at the handle and spout. We also run water looking for functional drainage; however, drain lines can become blocked at anytime, and this condition cannot be predicted. Under the sink we check for leaks, rust and corrosion of the sink, drain and supply piping.
67. General Features
General features include: condition of counters, cabinets, flooring, windows, ceiling and light fixtures. Many times dishes and belongings will block view of counters and cabinets. These items are not moved during this inspection and you should check these areas during your final walkthrough, after the occupants have moved out.
68. Garbage Disposal
Garbage disposals can rust and corrode internally. It is difficult to verify the condition of the interior of the unit. If the unit vibrates excessively or makes unusual noises, matter may be lodged inside or blades may be damaged. Sometimes repair is simple, while other times replacement may be required.
69. Range / Oven / Cooktop
The elements and burners of ovens, ranges and cooktops are checked for functionality only. Calibration of thermostats is beyond the scope of this inspection.
70. Dishwasher
Our inspection of the dishwasher includes the general condition of the unit, dish racks and door seals. The condition of the pump and motor is not determined since the dishwasher is not disassembled. Racks that are rusted can usually be replaced.
71. Special Features
Special features, if inspected, are tested just as any homeowner would use the device or appliance. No disassembly or special test equipment is used. If there is no trash in a compactor we turn the unit on; however, this does not verify compacting ability. If we operate a microwave we will heat a glass of water for one minute although heating ability varies between units.
Bathroom
72. Toilet
Toilets that are loose at the base or at the tank connection pose the possibility of leaking. Sometimes the wax seal at the floor must be replaced to prevent leakage on the floor or below the house.
73. Sink
The water shutoff valves below the sink are not tested during this inspection. Many times these valves have not been used for some time and can leak if turned. This is a common occurrence.
74. Ventilation / Heat
Bathrooms that contain a tub or shower need ventilation either through a window or mechanical exhaust vented through the roof or wall.
75. Bathtub
Our evaluation of the bathtub consists of the visible and accessible areas only. Many times the drain and supply piping are not accessible and cannot bejudged. Maintaining the caulk and grout in good condition is important to avoid leakage. We do not fill the tub to overflowing to check the overflow drain connection. If a whirlpool is installed we test the equipment using normal operating controls. Sometimes access to the pump and jet piping is not possible and they cannot be inspected.
76. Shower
Shower enclosures should be properly caulked and maintained to avoid leakage. It is often difficult to determine if glass enclosures are tempered safety glass. All non-safety glass is considered a potential hazard and upgrades should be considered.
FAQ
General FAQ
An inspection is a visual examination of the structure and systems of a building. If you are thinking of buying a home, condominium, townhouse, or multi-unit building, you should have it thoroughly inspected before the final purchase by an experienced and impartial professional inspector.
The purchase of a home is one of the largest single investments you will ever make. You should know exactly what to expect – both indoors and out – in terms of needed and future repairs and maintenance. A fresh coat of paint could be hiding serious structural problems. Stains on the ceiling may indicate a chronic roof leakage problem or may be simply the result of a single incident. The inspector interprets these and other clues, and then presents a professional opinion as to the condition of the property so you can avoid unpleasant surprises afterward. Of course, an inspection will also point out the positive aspects of a home as well as the type of maintenance needed to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will have a much clearer understanding of the property you are about to purchase, and be able to make your decision confidently.
As a seller, if you have owned your home for a period of time, an inspection can identify potential problems in the sale of you home and can recommend preventive measures that might avoid future expensive repairs.NuCentury Home Inspections abides and adheres to the strict guidelines set forth by NACHI (National Association of Certified Home Inspectors).
A complete inspection includes a visual examination of the home from top to bottom. The inspector evaluates and reports the condition of the structure, roof, foundation, drainage, plumbing, heating system, central air-conditioning system, visible insulation, walls, windows, and doors. Only those items that are visible and accessible by normal means are included in the report.
No. The inspection and report do not constitute a warranty, guarantee, or insurance policy of any kind whatsoever. No inspection can wholly eliminate the uncertainty regarding the presence of material defects and the performance of the dwelling’s systems. The inspection is intended to reduce the uncertainty regarding the potential for component or system failure.
The average lead-time to schedule an inspection is 3 to 7 business days from the time you order. For your convenience, we also work on weekends at no additional charge.
The average inspection takes two to three hours depending on the size, age, and condition of the property.
Cost varies depending on the type of structure, square footage, and geographic area. However, the cost should not be a factor in the decision whether or not to have a physical inspection. You might save many times the cost of the inspection if you are able to have the seller perform repairs based on significant problems revealed by the inspector.
You will receive a soft copy (PDF) of your report by 5:00 PM the next day.
Home buyer FAQ
It is not necessary for you to be present for the inspection, but it is a good idea. By following the inspector through the inspection, observing and asking questions, you will learn about the home and get some tips on general maintenance. This information will be of great help to you after you have moved in.
The best time to consult the inspector is right after you have made an offer on your new home. The real estate contract usually allows for a grace period to inspect the building. Ask your agent to include this inspection clause in the contract, making your purchase obligation contingent upon the findings of a professional inspection.
As a seller, if you have owned your home for a period of time, an inspection can identify potential problems in the sale of you home and can recommend preventive measures that might avoid future expensive repairs.
No. An inspection is simply an examination into the current condition of your prospective real estate purchase. It is not an appraisal or Municipal Code inspection. An inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a building, but will simply describe its condition and indicate which items will be in need of minor or major repairs or replacement.
If the inspector finds problems in a building, it does not necessarily mean you shouldn’t buy it, only that you will know in advance what type of repairs to anticipate. A seller may be willing to make repairs because of significant problems discovered by the inspector. If your budget is tight, or if you do not wish to become involved in future repair work, you may decide that this is not the property for you. The choice is yours.
Definitely! Now you can complete your purchase with peace of mind about the condition of the property and its systems. You may have learned a few things about your property from the inspection report, and will want to keep that information for your future reference. Above all, you can rest assured that you are making a well-informed purchase decision and that you will be able to enjoy or occupy your new home the way you want.
Even the most experienced homeowner lacks the knowledge and expertise of a professional inspector who has inspected hundreds, and perhaps thousands of homes in their career. An inspector is equally familiar with the critical elements of construction and with the proper installation, maintenance and inter-relationships of these elements. Above all, most buyers find it difficult to remain completely objective and unemotional about the home they really want, and this may lead to a poor assessment.
It is not good business to forego a home inspection on a newly constructed house, regardless of how conscientious and reputable your homebuilder. No home, regardless of how well it is constructed, is totally free of defects. The construction of a house involves thousands of details, performed at the hands of scores of individuals. No general contractor can possibly oversee every one of these elements, and the very nature of human fallibility dictates that some mistakes and oversights will occur, even when the most talented and best-intentioned trades-people are involved. It is also an unfortunate aspect of modern times that some builders/developers do not stand behind their workmanship and may not return to fix or replace defective components installed after the sale is complete.
Often the builder/developer will state the home has been built to “code” and that it was inspected at the different stages and signed off by the local jurisdiction. However, building codes are frequently “minimum in nature” – that is, the primary intent of building regulations (codes) is to provide reasonable controls for the construction, use and occupancy of buildings. The builder is responsible to meet minimal standards at best – you may want higher standards applied to your dream house. Also, it is an unfortunate fact of the hectic pace of construction, that local building department inspectors are often overbooked with inspections, which results in their spending a minimal amount of time at the construction job site and important details may be overlooked. Finally, jurisdictional inspectors are not concerned with workmanship as long as all the systems and components in a new home meet minimum code requirements.
Home Seller FAQ
Home sellers are being urged to utilize home inspections prior to listing their homes. Professional inspections can discover unknown conditions allowing sellers an opportunity to perform desired repairs before placing the property on the market. A professional “listing inspection” is just good business, it may facilitate a smoother transaction by putting potential buyers at ease, reducing negotiating points, and bypassing annoying delays.
California case law states that it is the duty of a seller disclose relevant facts concerning the property for sale through a TDS form (Transfer Document Statement). This basically means a seller of one to four residential units has a legal obligation to disclose all of the conditions of the property known to them to perspective buyers, which is often accomplished through use of a TDS. While the listing inspection report cannot be used as a substitute for the TDS, it does allow the seller to provide prospective buyers with additional information, based on an unbiased, third party, professional inspection.
A listing inspection report is not intended to be a “do” or repair list for the home. Sellers are not obligated to repair conditions noted in the report, nor are they required to produce a flawless house. With a pre-listing home inspection, potential repair items already known by both parties are subject to any negotiations. A home seller can make repairs as a matter of choice, not obligation, to foster good will or to facilitate the sale. Sellers maintain the legal right to refuse repair demands, except where requirements are set forth by state law, local ordinance, or the real estate purchase contract.
As a seller, if you have owned your property for a period of time, an inspection can help identify potential problems and recommend preventive measures, which might avoid future expensive repairs. There is no such thing as a home that is too new or too well built to benefit from a professional inspection. Anyone advising against an inspection is doing a disservice to the homebuyer. Many problems frequently encountered after the buyer moves in, are a routine discovery for a qualified home inspection.
An inspection consists of a non-invasive physical examination of a home’s systems, structures and components intended to identify material defects that exist at the time of inspection. The heating and cooling equipment is activated along with operating plumbing fixtures, testing accessible electrical outlets and fixtures, and operating a representative sampling of doors and windows. Visual inspection of the roof, walls and drainage adjacent to the home are included. Because of the wide range of construction practiced and the “normal” wear and tear placed on the components of home, a professional home inspection can help provide a wealth of information to a home seller anxious to convey the condition of their home to perspective buyers.
Inspection reports often identify the same neglected maintenance items. Performing some basic maintenance can help keep your home in better condition, thus reducing the chance of those conditions showing up on the inspection report. To present a better maintained home to perspective buyers follow these tips. Most of these items can be accomplished with little or no cost, while the benefits of selling a well maintained home can be worth the effort.
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